My Snazzy Chicken Coop

Keeping Chickens as Pets

Chicken Coop Building Plans – 5 Tips to Consider Before Building A Coop for Your Chickens

By snazzyc Leave a Comment

The skills needed to build a basic chicken coop are within the abilities of most people. It is not the kind of carpentry that requires an expert finish, although having it end up reasonably square with itself is preferable (unless you are aiming for a Dr Seuss look).  With smaller coops you don’t even have to worry about that too much, attempting a larger coop such as a big shed to house 50 or more chickens is where those kinds of things become most important, but a nice little coop is well within the building skills of most people. If you can put up a cupboard, you can probably build a chicken coop.

There are a few considerations though before you jump into it.

  • Your time – If your chickens are already ordered and on their way then you may not have time to build a coop. Even a small coop is probably going to need the weekend to build – but then again, if it is that urgent, building may be your only option as ordering a coop would probably be too late (and if you order a flat pack coop you still will have to put it together anyway).  If you don’t have much time but want to be involved in designing and building your own coop (or adapting a coop design) then perhaps enrolling a friend who is good at diy or hiring a carpenter to work from your chosen plans would be a good compromise.
  • Your abilities – If you can handle a hammer, a saw, a drill, and a paint brush, you can probably build a chicken coop. You will find it much easier if you have done some kind of diy before. If your first ever carpentry project is a chicken coop, you may take to it like a duck to water (it happens) and build a beautiful chicken coop you are proud of and that looks great in the garden, but try to be a bit conservative with your ambitions just in case.
  • Your tools – Tools are expensive so you should consider what tools you may need to purchase (or borrow) to supplement any that you may already have. With a lot of the smaller coop designs you will basically be banging together pieces of wood and sticking on small holed galvinised steel wire to a frame for the run (‘chicken wire’ will keep your chickens in but is not strong enough to keep out any serious predators). So apart from cutting the wood to size (and it may be possible to order wood cut to the sizes you want at your store) you would need at the very least a hammer, selection of nails/staples and wire cutters. You should probably have a tape measure, speed square, and a level, too. I have known people build a coop using just a nail gun for the wooden framing and a staple gun to fix the wire to it – it won’t be a big fancy ‘this is better than my house’ type of coop, but still, if it keeps the chickens dry and safe from predators that really is all that matters.
cccollection

One of the ‘real’ chicken coop plans from the collection.

  • Your blueprints – You’ll find blueprints so rudimentary that they don’t even give specific lengths and widths, and some so incredibly complex they require an advanced degree in architecture. There are many free coop designs available on the web which can be great for getting ideas from and also may be something you can use to help if you want to come up with your own design (squared graph paper can be helpful for drawing out ideas). There are also plans which can be purchased and are usually around the $10-$30 range for a single plan. The benefit of these is that they usually go into much greater details than the free ones and will also include helpful details such as the measurements and materials lists. A collection of plans like the ones here can also give you ideas and the basis for your own plan, even if you don’t want to follow one exactly – and as you get multiple plans included it can also help you pick and choose bits you like and in the future when you want to upgrade/expand (often your first chicken coop will not be your last!) you will have other coop designs already on hand. Most purchased ones include the materials list and measurements etc. as you might expect but what I particularly like about that collection is that they are real coops that have actually been used – a lot of others I have seen on the web are just cartoon drawings of what it ‘might’ look like. Having said that though if you do like a more cartoony feel to your designs then there is another collection of blueprints you might like to look through here. There aren’t quite as many included, and it is a little bit more expensive, but there are a few extra bonus ebooks on chicken care thrown in which the first collection doesn’t have. Between the two there are more than 15 designs so there is quite a few to choose from.

Keep in mind that you don’t have to buy all your materials brand new. You may be able to find scrap lumber or things like roofing shingles from builders yards, carpentry shops, hardware stores and classified ads. By doing a bit of diy and building your own coop and being a little bit flexible with the design and materials list so you can make use of any free or cheap supplies you can often benefit from quite big savings when compared with a bought coop.

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Filed Under: Housing Chickens

The Chicken Run – 5 Tips for Giving Your Chickens Space to “Run”

By snazzyc Leave a Comment

Chickens love to scratch and peck – it’s what they do. They will love to be outside pecking around for bugs etc if they get the chance to and unless the weather is really bad, or they are laying an egg, most would choose to be outside for the majority of their time. In small gardens and backyards free ranging all day is often not possible (unless you don’t mind them taking over your whole garden and eating/scratching up everything in sight). From a predator safety point of view gardens are often not secure enough to be predator proof (it is not even necessarily things like foxes and hawks that do the most damage – neighbourhood dogs can be a real menace) and your chickens may travel into other neighbours yards. To keep them secure a run is needed. Allowing at least 10 square feet for every chicken is usually recommended – especially if they are to be in there all of the time. Building a run for your chickens is fairly simple – a simple run could be constructed from a wooden frame or even pvc piping with small holed galvanised steel wire attached to it.

pvcpiperun

Here are some things to consider :

1. Protection : A run needs to be secure so that predators such as foxes, neigbourhood dogs, hawks, racoons, rats etc. can’t get at your chickens. ‘Chicken Wire’ for your run may seem the obvious choice but can be easily bent or bitten out of shape so for the best security small holed galvinised steel wire would be better. Small holes help prevent predators such as racoons reaching through and grabbing a chicken through the wire (many have lost a leg – or worse – in this way). Having the wire continuing down a little underground and out a few inches will help prevent diggers from burrowing in. Having wire over the top of your run will stop hawks from swooping in (or other predators climbing over).

2. Height : Many chicken breeds can fly over a 5 or 6 foot fence so having wire over the top will also help stop them getting out. From an access point of view, it will be much easier for you to tend to your chickens if the run is a height you can stand up in.

3. Mud : The grass in my chicken run lasted about two months before the whole area became just mud, and they were only in the run for a few hours a day. Chickens scratch and unfortunately, unless they have such a large area so their effect on it is spread out that much more, a grassy run will end up as a mud one very quickly so drainage is important.

4. Shelter : Try to make sure they have areas that are shaded from the sun, and can shelter from the wind and rain.

run-frame

5. Stationery vs. Portable Runs : A stationary run will probably benefit from some kind of ground cover – common chicken run ground cover options are things like pine chips, straw, and sand.  You can build or buy portable coops and runs called ‘chicken tractors’ or ‘tractor runs’.  They tend to be quite small (less than the 10 square foot normal allowance of space) but are moved frequently to a new area which gives the previous area(s) time to recover in between, and the chickens a new ‘clean’ run.

chickens-in-run

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Filed Under: Housing Chickens

Chicken Raiser Profile: Lisa Steele

By snazzyc Leave a Comment

lisasfirsteggAndrew got to know Lisa in 2010 and this is his interview with her from December of that year. Her husband is retired from the United Sates Navy (thanks for your service!). They live on a “hobby farm” in Virginia, where Lisa is slowly (or not so slowly) becoming a committed farmer and agricultural expert.

Enjoy her profile.

1. Who are you? Lisa Steele.

2. Where are you from? Grew up in central Massachusetts.

3. Where do you live? Suffolk, Virginia.

4. Is the area urban, suburban, rural? Rural, we have a 6-acre farm about 1/2 hour outside of downtown Norfolk.

5. What do you do with your days? Take care of our 8 chickens, duck, horse and cat; and sell coop plans and other items on eBay.

6. Do you have children? Ages? No.

7. Are you involved with any other “urban farming” activities? Vegetable and herb gardening.

8. What causes are important to you? Humane treatment of animals, raising self-sufficiency/homesteading awareness in our country.

9. Where can we find your writings online? Facebook.

10. Are there any issues/causes/websites/products, etc. that you would like to raise awareness among our readers? Probiotics and Diatomaceous Earth. I add both to my chickens feed and sprinkle DE on the floor of their coop and in their dust bath area. Both help with internal and external parasites. I only give my chickens natural products. No chemicals or medications.

11. How many years have you been raising chickens? Only since spring of 2009.

12. How many chickens do you have? 8 and plan to add a few new chicks each spring.

varietyofeggs

13. How many eggs a week do you get? 35-40 during peak laying.

14. What got you into raising chickens? My grandparents immigrated from Finland in the 30′s and had a working chicken farm across the street from where I grew up when their restaurant closed during WWII. We had a few chickens ourselves growing up, but it never dawned on me to raise them as an adult until we moved out here to our farm and my husband suggested chickens as an alternative to the pygmy goats I originally wanted!

15. When did you first learn about “backyard chicken” raising? I grew up in a family of chicken farmers.

16. Who is the first person you knew to raise chickens (not a farmer), and when did they start raising chickens? My yoga instructor. I believe she started a few years ago.

catandchickens

17. What is the general cost and types of expenses of raising chickens, say on a monthly basis? I spend probably $12 on feed, and that’s about it. They have a large yard, part dirt and part grass, where they roam for bugs and which I supplement with our healthy table scraps, worms and grubs that I dig for them out of our manure pile and occasional yogurt or lettuce heads. I crush all my egg shells and feed them as calcium supplement also.

18. What will you do with your chickens after they stop laying eggs? Continue to feed them! Since getting the chickens, I have a hard time eating chicken. I could NEVER eat one of ours, and have trouble even eating a chicken I didn’t know! Our chickens are purely for the eggs and companionship, which is more than enough reward for the little work they require.

19. What type of coop do you have? Raised 4″x6″ wooden with three nesting boxes and two roosting bars. Shingle roof.

20. Did you build it yourself? I built it myself after doing a lot of research online.

21. How long did it take? I built it over the course of two weekends.

22. How much did it cost? It cost about $250 for the materials.

brooderbox

23. Knowing what you know now, what would you do differently? I wouldn’t do anything differently. I incorporated all the ideas I saw online into my plans. Although, since building it, I did cut a few more vents and covered them with hardware mesh to allow the heat to escape in the summer since this past summer was so hot…

24. What are the key ingredients in a “successful” coop? Primary concern is that it should be secure from predators. Use 1/2″ hardware mesh on all openings, not chicken wire. Raised off the ground to prevent predators from digging in through the floor. Use predator proof eye hooks on the door, a raccoon can figure out a regular latch. Dry from the elements. Ventilated but not drafty, in general the openings should be above the chickens heads, not floor level. Nailing down a sheet of linoleum on the floor makes cleanup easy and prevents floor rot. Lots of clean straw bedding is also important.

25. What type of predators do you have to deal with? Fox, red tail hawk, neighborhood dogs, black snakes

26. How do you defend against them? Lock the chickens up at dark every night. Their yard is fenced in with crisscross strings running across the top to prevent hawk attacks.

insidebrooder

27. Do you have any predator horror stories? Unfortunately, I did lose two chickens – we think to a fox – while I was still letting them free range. They just disappeared. We also lost a baby chick to a black snake – while the chicks were in our garage! The snake slithered in and up and over the brooder box which was open on top. After that, I made a nice, safe brooder box out of a large plastic container with a lid and a hardware mesh opening on the top.

We have also had three red tail hawk attacks. The first one, my buff was too heavy and the hawk couldn’t carry her off, so he dropped her. She was fine, even laid an egg that day! Didn’t phase her a bit being carried across the front yard. The second attack, our dog alerted me and I was able to get out there and scare the hawk away. My chicken was bleeding from the mouth and head, limping, I didn’t think she would make it, but I put some clotting powder on her wounds, gave her some sugar water and put her in a nesting box until my husband got home, figuring that was the end of her. But somehow she pulled through that day and the next. It took about a month, but she made a full recovery. The third hawk attack was after I decided that free ranging wasn’t working, so only let the chickens out while I was outside with them. The hawk swooped down not 20 yards from where I was sitting, but fortunately the chickens all ran for cover and no harm done. After that, the free ranging was over for good.

28. What do you love most about raising chickens? Collecting the eggs every day and seeing them come running to me for treats. I also love the soft cooing sounds they make when they are happy.

29. What do you love least about raising chickens? Predator alert. It’s very stressful, and so sad to lose a chicken. Keeping chickens safe from predators has so far been the only challenge to raising chickens. They really love to roam around, and it’s healthier for them because they find all sorts of bugs and grasses and seeds, but it’s too hard to keep them safe that way. I know a lot of people who say their chickens free range and they’ve never had a problem, but take it from me, it only takes one time.

brucelee-chick

30. What is the funniest story you have about raising chickens? This year’s batch of baby chicks would all run to the corner when I put my hand in to change their feed or water. All except for one Ameraucana. She would run headlong into my hand and then karate kick me. I kept telling my husband and he didn’t believe it until he fed them one day and she did the same to him. Full on two footed karate kick. He named her Bruce Lee. She has since grown out of the kicking and she’s very sweet, but definitely has an attitude. And at 5 months, she’s already at the top of the pecking order, even comandeered the ‘best’ roost position from one of my older hens. She’s the first to jump up on anything I put in the yard, she’s not afraid of anything. She even chases our cat away when he comes too close.

31. Is raising chickens a family affair? If yes, how so? My husband will step in and close up the coop in the evening or let them out in the morning if I’m not home and he’s good about helping me carry the big bags of feed down to the barn, but other than that, I pretty much am the sole chicken person in our family.

bluecoop

32. Why would you recommend others to get into chicken raising? I would most definitely recommend it. Even if you think you live somewhere that you can’t raise chickens, check with your town. Our mail carrier lives in a neighborhood development and after seeing my chickens and a few dozen fresh eggs, she decided to get chickens herself. They live in a coop in her 1/4 acre backyard. Many areas will allow a few chickens but not roosters, so if you are interested, please make a few calls and find out. You can easily convert a regular doghouse into a coop for just three or four chickens.

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Filed Under: Chicken Raiser Profiles

Christine Heinrichs on Cold Weather Chicken Breeds

By snazzyc Leave a Comment

Most chickens manage cold well, but some breeds are especially well adapted to frosty conditions. Overall, chickens are heavily feathered and insulated against the cold.

The comb is the most sensitive part of the chicken and most likely to suffer cold damage. Frozen combs do not regenerate – it’s like dubbing. The experience is stressful for the chicken, so it’s best avoided. If your chickens have large single combs and they are exposed to temperatures below freezing, a coat of petroleum jelly on the comb can provide some protection. Choose a breed with a small rose, pea, cushion or strawberry comb instead.

A heat lamp in the coop, even a regular light bulb, can provide sufficient additional warmth to protect birds from damage. Chickens generate warmth with their own bodies, so more birds means more warmth.

Sometimes the biggest challenge is keeping the water from freezing. Electric water dishes are available. Make sure your chickens have fresh water available.

Chanteclers were developed as a Canadian breed and remain the only recognized Canadian breed. Their small, low, cushion combs are well suited to cold weather. They are good winter layers. They are big birds, cocks weighing more then 8 lbs and hens more than 6. When the last rooster being kept at the University of Saskatchewan died in 1979, the breed was declared extinct, but small flock owners across Canada and the U.S. had maintained them. The numbers were relatively low, and some breeders graded other breeds into their birds to strengthen them. Chanteclers are a modern composite breed, so they can also be re-created. As a result, there is some discussion about purity of the existing stock and whether birds come from original or re-created lines. You may determine for yourself to what extent you wish to be involved in that discussion.

White Wyandotte Hen

White Wyandotte Hen

Wyandottes were developed in New York State in the 1870s, another location known for cold winter weather. They feather out well and come in several colors. The Columbian color pattern acquired its name from the 1893 Columbian Exhibition, the Chicago World’s Fair, the year the pattern was introduced. It was accepted by the APA in 1905. They are a good dual purpose breed.

Dominiques, with their rose combs, are reliable and sturdy. They have a long American history going back to Colonial times, so they have survived many cold winters. They are good winter layers, good broody hens and good mothers.

Javas, a foundation breed that traces its roots to that Southeast Asian island, nevertheless do well in cold American weather.

A Buckeye rooster

A Buckeye rooster

Buckeyes are the only American breed credited to a woman, Mrs. Nettie Metcalf of Warren, Ohio. They are named for the Buckeye state and the Buckeye whose color they have. With their pea combs, they are well-suited to those cold Ohio winters and a good all-around breed.

Norwegian Jaerhons are a long established Scandinavian breed that was standardized in the 20th century breed. They are smaller, 5 lbs. for cocks and 3 ½ for hens, with attractive patterns. A good choice for a hardy dual purpose breed.

Faverolles are a French composite dual purpose breed that was developed for winter egg laying. Their eggs are light brown. They are hefty birds, with mature cocks weighing in at eight lbs. or more and hens at 7 lbs. They are the only breed with the Salmon color variety, a pattern of bright contrasting colors on the males and more demure brown and cream on the females.

White Dorkings are recognized as a rose comb variety. Other unrecognized Dorking varieties also have rose combs. SPPA president Craig Russell remembers the effects of an Arctic front that chilled his Pennsylvania farm several years ago. “The other chickens stopped laying the first day,” he said, “but the Dorkings went right on laying through that below-zero cold.”

Rhode Island Reds are recognized in a rose comb variety, and Rhode Island Whites have rose combs. Hamburgs are a rose-combed breed that has been known in the past as the “Dutch Everyday Layer.”

Icelandic chickens are the chickens of the Vikings, a landrace rather than a breed developed through selective breeding. They are small, almost banty size, but good winter layers of white eggs. . Their Icelandic name, Íslenka landnámshænan, means “Icelandic hen of the settlers.” They are long-lived, hardy foragers. The hens are good broodies. Their color patterns, combs and leg colors are not standardized and the breed is not recognized for exhibition. They are quite rare but would make a good choice for a cold climate flock. Behl Farm in Rochester, Illinois, 217-498-7522, has eggs available by mail. Chicks and adult birds may be purchased at the farm.

rhodeislandreds

Rhode Island Reds

Kraienkoppes are another breed not included in the Standard that is winter-hardy and a good layer. Small, at around five or six pounds, they are good foragers that prefer some free range in their lives. Their history in The Netherlands and Germany explains their resilience in cold weather. They are rare but those who have them praise them.

Breeds with more feathers do better. Silkies, with their hair-like feathers, are subject to chill if their feathers get wet, but otherwise manage well in cold conditions. Keep an extra eye on them. Oriental Game breeds such as Malays and Shamos as a group may suffer in cold weather. Naked Necks, with about half the feathers of other breeds, nevertheless seem to fare fine in cold weather. To quote Mr. Russell, “Naked Necks are just tough chickens.”

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From Dog House to Chicken Coop

By snazzyc 2 Comments

doghouse01

Chicken coops can come in all shapes and sizes and whilst building one from scratch can be very rewarding, perhaps you already have something that can be repurposed. Making use of an existing structure can potentially save you time and money – just be sure to check that it is (or you can make it) secure and leak proof and you should be good to go.

ventilationYou may also need to add additional ventilation holes. Hardware cloth can be tacked behind the gaps to make any ventilation holes safe from small unwanted guests such as mice or snakes climbing through.

doghouse-into-chickencoop

In the case of the adaptation of the kennel above, the majority of the work involved making a door for the chicken coop as in it’s previous life it had been just an opening. As you can see from the photo the door is just some 2×4 wood, hinges and some more hardware cloth as a screen.

hen-on-nest
dustbathing

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Are Chickens Like…2 Year Old Children?!

By snazzyc Leave a Comment

After raising chickens for a year that’s one of the conclusions that Jennifer Pack at the Not Dabbling In Normal blog came to. She learned two big lessons:

1. Protect Your Edible Garden – If you are going to allow your chickens to free range, they are going to pick and eat at everything edible (and possibly non-edible) they can. Yes, they’ll eat bugs, ticks and weeds. That’s the good part. But they are also going to eat that garden you’ve worked so hard at watering, loving and talking to. So either keep the birds fenced in, or the garden fenced in. One or the other.

Like child-proofing your home…you need to chicken-proof your garden!

2. Fresh Eggs Make Up for All of the Destruction – Again, like kids…they can do so much damage and be so impossible, but at the end of the day, there are those moments like when they give you a hug or tell you that they love you, it sort of just makes up for everything else.

Are eggs a chicken’s way of saying: “I love you?”

Click here to read the full article »

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